Engadine - from St Moritz to Scuol, a photography and what to do guide to Switzerland's most beautiful valley
- Maciek
- May 25
- 18 min read
The Engadine, a 100 km long valley in southeastern Switzerland, is a haven of peace, a wellspring of creativity, and a destination that fulfills various desires. In this region, sports coexist seamlessly with relaxation, modesty blends with Victorian grandeur. What has attracted tourists to this area for centuries, and what continues to bring them back? Here is a concise guide to this fascinating part of Europe.
My first encounter with the Engadine was strange for me. I did not understand the widespread praise, sighs and flattery that the Swiss give it. Just a long, wide valley with a gentle, rather dull landscape. And what is there to admire? Some lakes, a few villages i.... And that's it. Today I look at this place differently - the Engadine is the first thought when a weekend appears on the horizon. This land needs to be matured, understood and given some time. And then there is no turning back.
Believe me, there is no better place to spend time in Switzerland. Spending time instead of chasing the hours that escape. You won't find vertical slopes tumbling into deep lakes, dramatic glaciers, a mountain rivaling the Matterhorn in beauty, spectacular architecture or chilling curves. Such experiences, such brief moments of awe, must be sought elsewhere. Simply put, don't come to the Engadine for a day. It is not worth it. It's a waste of the road, petrol and your time. Several days? That's different. You will be delighted.
Check our photography guidebook to the Engadin with multiple locations and photo spots!
Seasons, or the charms of the Engadine
With its harsh climate, the Engadine actually has only three seasons: a colourful summer, a golden autumn and a harsh winter. (check more about seasons in Switzerland and when to go)
Spring - a dead season
Spring starts late and when the snow finally leaves the hillsides, the yellowed grasses turn colourful. This lasts for a short time and the whole valley is then plunged into tourist obscurity. Nature, shepherds and hoteliers all prepare quickly for summer.
Summer in the Engadin
Summer comes in a flash. In June, the meadows are covered with carpets of flowers. Although the nights are still cold, nature craves the sun and plants fight for the attention of every insect. This is also when the hiking season begins and is the best time to explore this part of the Grisons. Summer lasts a long time here. And given the altitude (Sankt Moritz lies at 1,822 metres above sea level), for an exceedingly long time. It is the valley's exceptionally sunny climate that allows nature and tourists to enjoy the good weather for so long. From July to September, life here bustles with real vigour.
Autumn in the Engadine - the ideal time for golden larches
Autumn, and especially October, bring the first frosts and force the larches to clothe the entire valley in a uniform golden colour. Apart from a few pines and a few birches, it is the larches that make up the stand of the valley and it is in autumn that, as if on command, they change colour to shed their needles after two to three weeks. This phenomenal phenomenon makes the turquoise lakes even more vivid in contrast to the yellow colours of the surrounding forests.
Winter in the Engadine
Winter in the Engadine lasts a long time and is extremely harsh. Temperatures of -20⁰C are not uncommon. The lakes are covered in ice and the gentle landscape is covered in a thick layer of snow. Under a white blanket of powder, nature remains dormant until May.
You can fall in love, can't you?
And now for some details and ideas for your holiday, holiday or trip.
What to Do in Engadin and St. Moritz
My list of recommendations for the Engadin is quite extensive... sorry :D It spans the whole year, so feel free to choose!
Hiking & Nature Walks
Hike the Via Engadina, especially Stage 1 from Maloja Pass to Silvaplana
Walk scenic trails around Silsersee, Silvaplanersee, and Stazersee
Visit the Morteratsch Glacier Valley for glacier views and easy access
Explore Val Roseg and other side valleys for quieter, longer hikes
Watch sunrise or sunset from Chamanna Georgy or Muottas Muragl
Cycling & Mountain Biking
Road bike across Albula, Julier, Bernina, or Flüela Pass
Ride the Inn-Radweg (Route 65) across the entire Engadin Valley
Take MTB descents from Ospizio Bernina to St. Moritz or Poschiavo
Ride Flow Trails above Celerina or Suvretta Loop for XC-style routes
Use e-bikes with charging stations along the valley
Winter Sports
Cross-country ski on 280 km of trails, including Val Roseg and lake routes
Join or watch the famous Engadin Skimarathon
Ski the slopes of Diavolezza, including the full moon ski run
Iconic Train Rides
Take the Glacier Express from St. Moritz through the Alps
Ride the Bernina Express to Poschiavo for scenic glacier and lake views
Relaxation & Wellness
Visit historic spa resorts like Kulm Hotel, Badrutt's Palace, and Suvretta House
Enjoy modern wellness centers with thermal baths and alpine treatments
Scenic Viewpoints & Easy Walks
Ride the train to Muottas Muragl for panoramic views over lakes and peaks
Walk the lake promenade in St. Moritz or around Lake St. Moritz
Lakes & Watersports
Kayak or paddleboard on Silsersee and Silvaplanersee
Try kitesurfing or windsurfing on windy days
Swim in alpine lakes if you can brave the cold water
Culture & Museums
Visit Muzeum Susch, a contemporary art gallery in a 12th-century monastery
Discover historic villages like Guarda, S-charl, and Tarasp for architecture and local charm
Scenic Drives & Car Culture
Drive scenic mountain roads: Albulapass, Berninapass, or Flüelapass
Attend the British Classic Car Meeting in St. Moritz
Events & Seasonal Highlights
Watch the White Turf horse races on the frozen lake
Attend the Snow Polo World Cup
Explore local cuisine at the Tavolata St. Moritz food festival
Catch vintage cars racing on ice during The I.C.E.
Hiking and trekking in the Engadin
The Engadine can be explored in a variety of ways, and the first idea is trekking boots, poles and a backpack - after all, there is no shortage of trails. The most spectacular ones are those above the tree line and running on the southern slopes. These offer the pleasure of hiking in the sun with magnificent views of villages and lakes. The gem here is the Via Engadina, especially stage 1 - the trail running from Maloja Pass to the village of Silvaplana. It was from here that I took the photo featured in the header - a view of Lake Silsersee.
Nationalpark-Panoramaweg
A long-distance route worthy of note is the Nationalpark-Panoramaweg divided into 9 sections (155km, 8800m elevation gain along the route). It can be completed in a few days at a time, or selected sections can be completed in day trips. The trail runs through Switzerland's only national park and the different sections have varying levels of difficulty.
Silsersee - above the Upper Engadine
For less ambitious walkers, or those with even shorter legs, there are numerous walking trails around the lakes Silsersee (Romansh: Lej da Segl), Silvaplanersee (Romansh: Lej da Silvaplaun) and the area around Sankt Moritz - the lake next to the town and the small Stazersee above it.
The Morteratsch Glacier Valley
For a shorter and non-strenuous walk, I recommend choosing an absolute must-see: the Morteratsch Glacier Valley. This is one of the most accessible glaciers in the Alps and unfortunately also, shrinking before your eyes. It is an extremely pleasant route from which you can admire the highest peaks of the Eastern Alps, including Piz Bernina 4048 m above sea level (Piz in Romansh means peak), rising at the end of the valley. 200 metres above the valley floor, a very scenic trail runs along the western slope to the Chamanna da Boval CAS hut.
A longer walking alternative to the Morteratsch is the Val Roseg. Here, we will have to hike 13 km on a gravel road (from the station at Pontresina). Instead of the boring return along the same route, you can choose between two huts: Chamanna da Tschierva or Chamanna Coaz. The most demanding approach, however, will be the intermediate station of the cable car to Corvatsch. There is no trail to Piz Corvatsch itself.
Supposedly the best place to admire sunrises and sunsets is the Chamanna Georgys (link) lying just below the summit of Piz Languard 3262 m. Unfortunately, we haven't yet slept in any of the aforementioned huts - that's yet to be planned for next year!
There are many more huts in the side, smaller valleys flowing into the Engadine. If you want to hike in less frequented regions, these are the huts and valleys that should catch your eye. In addition, during these nature walks, you will often come across mountain farms offering home-made cheeses, jams and liqueurs. The hosts are always open, smiling and happy to chat with you. And you don't have to speak the local Romansh - English is well established in the Engadin.
Cycling and MTB biking around Engdyna
The Engadine seems made for cyclists, bikers and adrenaline-hungry enduro owners.
Road bike in the Engadin
On the road, you can climb one of the four passes: Albula Pass, Julierpass, Bernina Pass or Fluela Pass, or simply ride the entire valley along - 100 km one way.
You can also do this trip on a trekking bike - the Inn-Ranweg trail number 65 (named after the Inn River flowing out of St Moritz) is a little over 100 km long and runs on gravel and side roads. It is a charming route that starts at the Maloja Pass and ends near the Austrian border, in the town of Martina. It is not a trivial route, as there are quite a few uphill and downhill climbs waiting here - 1,800 m. Fortunately, the more difficult climbs can be circumnavigated by road or you can simply take a train with your bike.
Trains are a tasty treat for those who prefer to descend rather than ascend. The same goes for cable cars. Well, because if you don't have to pedal uphill too much, MTB takes on a completely different character.
MTB in the Engadin
The Swiss Engadine is a brilliant place for MTB and Enduro. But let's start with the trains, because the one we're particularly interested in leaves from Sankt Moritz and climbs 2253m above sea level to the Ospizio Bernina station. This is where the alpine cycling ‘one’ - Alpine Bike 1, stage 3 - runs (link). Of course, keen supporters of uphill cycling are encouraged to tackle the section between Silaplana and Livigno. We prefer to go wild by descending. And there are two (actually three) directions from Passo Bernina: Sankt Moritz or Poschiavo (here two trails to choose from: 436 and 673).
I especially recommend the descent to Poschiavo via route 436 - you can go wild with beautiful views. Then return to the mountain again by train and descend to Engadine and Sankt Mortiz. The trains that run between Sankt Moritz and Poschiavo in summer always have one or two bicycle carriages attached, which quickly fill up with MTB trail or enduro machines.
In addition to this escapade, there are several other notable routes in the Engadin. You can pack your bikes onto a bus in Scuol and get to S-charl (Post-Auto is a well-organised bus network), then continue up the mountain to the old Tamangur forest and back to Scuol - it will be a light ride just right for an outing with younger riders. And this is also a section belonging to Alpin Bike 1, number 1.
However, the routes described are not typical ‘paths’. If you are looking for singletrack-type trails, the six-kilometre WM Flow Trail and the four-kilometre Olympia Trail - both for MTB only - lead above Sankt Moritz from the summit of Croviglia (accessible by train).
There are also a couple of routes typical of Cross-Country, or classic MTB, or if you prefer the old mountaineering - the 671 Suvretta Loop, or the spectacular Trans-Altarezia 32, stage 2 - Scuol-Sta. Maria (link) with sections in rock-cut tunnels (our plan for 2021). You can find more about MTB and route recommendations with a map at engadin.ch.
For e-Bike owners, a map of stations where you can charge your batteries (electricity, not beer) will be valuable information - link to map.
Cross-country skiing in Sankt Moritz and the Engadine
When the snow falls and the temperature reaches that critical minus a dozen degrees, the lakes freeze over and the whole area turns into a paradise for cross-country skiing. The area offers, a bagatelle, 280 km of cross-country trails of varying levels of difficulty. Amateurs take their first steps on the flat surface of the lake and the surrounding meadows, while professionals choose more demanding trails like the one in Val Roseg.
The main two bases are of course Sankt Moritz and Silvaplana. Base is a good term, as it is not difficult to find equipment to borrow, parking facilities and showers open in winter, which are forgotten elsewhere.
A whole range of events and activities are organised every year, although nothing attracts as many participants as the Engadin Skimaraton, which attracted 14200 people in 2018.
By train and bus through Engadine and Grisons
For all its ruggedness and wildness, the Engadine is exceptionally well organised. Trains between St Moritz, Chur, Davos and Scoul run regularly. And the rail car service between Klosters and Sagliains runs all year round.
If you can't get somewhere by train, there is definitely a bus service. From here you can go to Italian Chiavenna, Livigno or take a mountain bus (and how!) to Alp Camp. As a rule, the buses in summer have bike racks or trailers for bikes (on the line through Bernina Pass) and in winter they have ski racks. However, they are crowded, so it is worth checking in advance if you need a reservation. Especially for a bike! You can find connections and timetables on the PostAuto website.
This way of travelling and organising trips provides you with a huge number of possibilities - there is no need to return to your starting point on foot (by bike or cross-country skiing). That's right - long trips become easier because you don't have to return on your own. The only thing I suggest is that you plan your returns well, as buses do not run late everywhere!
Around the Engadin by car
If you have to get there somehow, it can be difficult to park. Traffic is unlikely to be congested, but on summer days there is a lot of traffic. The road itself between Maloja and Sankt Moritz is one of the most pleasant scenic routes in Switzerland, with the magnificent Albulapass, Fluela Pass and Bernina Pass. And if you happen to be a connoisseur of classic British motoring (or drive such a classic), you might be interested in the annual Britsh Classic Car Meeting - www.bccm-stmoritz.ch.
I recommend having a bag of coins, as most car parks unfortunately don't support cards, and fines are definitely common here.
By kayak, SUP or swimming
If you don't mind the water temperature in a mountain lake (11-14C in summer), you can take part in the annual ÖTILLÖ Swimrun, a marathon of sorts, with 39.6 km to run and 5.8 km to swim in five lakes. Start in pairs!
The lakes offer a lot of fun under the sign of kayaks, paddling on a Supa or just getting your legs wet. There are quite a few rental shops! And, of course, there is walrushing - this fun can last all year round here!
Unusual and typical attractions - what else to do in Engadin
You may not find the Matterhorn here...but....
Spa, wellness, springs and historic Victorian hotels
All tourism in the Engadine began precisely with the human need to relax in the soothing, healing waters of everyday life. The springs were discovered by the Romans and the rest of the business went on by itself. The first place was, of course, Sankt Moritz, or rather Sanctum Mauricium, and the spring, sanctified by Pope Leo X, was just bubbling from under the church of St Maurice.
And it was thanks to this source that tourists and pilgrims began to flock to the Alps. However, this only happened in summer. The world turned its eyes towards the snow-covered valley only when the local hotelier, a true pioneer of tourism, Johannes Badrutt invited four tourists from England to his Kulm Hotel, promising them a full refund if they were disappointed with their winter stay. It happened just as he assumed. The year 1864 dates as the beginning of winter tourism in Switzerland and, de facto, in the entire Alps. This was also when the first Swiss tourist information office was established, in Sankt Moritz of course. The boom in the Alps became a year-round fact. Not only summer, but also the winter season and new sports suddenly became fashionable. We must bear in mind that in those years only the richest people travelled, so flats had to meet truly aristocratic standards. And it was precisely to meet the demands, and sniffing out good business in parties and cultural events, that Johannes Badrutt zelitrified his Kulm Hotel. Switzerland's first light bulb illuminated the darkness in 1879. Today, the Kulm Hotel still dominates Sankt Moritz and offers invariably exclusively modern conditions.
Of the other truly historic hotels in the Engadine, you can taste luxury at: Badrutt's Palace, Suvretta House, Waldhaus Sils, Hotel Walther and Kronenhof. In addition, there are more than 60 wellness facilities throughout the valley offering a variety of treatments and rituals based on spring water. All to a correspondingly high standard.
Muottas Muragl is the best viewpoint in the Engadine
The panorama as it unfolds from here in the morning is magnificent. A delicate mist envelops the lakes, with the tops of trees and church spires peeking out from the white feathers here and there. Silence reigns. The first rays of the sun touch the snow-covered peaks. In two hours it will be bustling, but for now... snap - pictures taken!
The summit hotel houses a brilliant restaurant with great service and delicious dishes made from local produce. It serves a kind of mix of Italian and Swiss cuisine, with a hint of Alpine herbs. The hotel also serves an excellent breakfast.
Very romantic! And you'll get to the top by train! Tested!
The international revue of Sankt Moritz
For a town of just over 5,000 inhabitants, the density of exclusive boutiques and five-star hotels is slightly alarming. Fact, the beautiful location, the relatively easy accessibility, the aforementioned springs and the climate have laid the foundations for today's success.
The richest people from every corner of the world have been drawn to Sankt Moritz for two centuries. Private jets are regularly parked at the small airport and black taxis with the Mercedes stamp run between the resorts. Spending a few thousand on a room (no matter what currency) is not a problem. Immediately after settling in, you can go shopping at Prada or pick out one of the Louis Vuitton logo handbags or a scarf from Hermes. Madness!
No wonder, then, that James Bond also visited here in films: Goldfinger, For Your Eyes Only, Lethal View and The Spy Who Loved Me. It's a shame tylok that there aren't such spectacular memorabilia of film scenes here as at Schilthorn. I wonder if it is 007 who has this obvious weakness for Switzerland or rather the villain!
Fortunately, not everything costs a fortune! And several attractions do not require tickets. And so you can stroll a bit from the centre to find an unusual old crooked tower right next to the Hotel Kulm. A second, equally interesting tower is the bell tower of St. Charles Borromeo Church standing right next to the lake. From here you can also take an hour-long walk around the lake. It is very romantic here in the evening.
The Ratsch Railway and the Glacier Express in the Engadin
The Ratsch Bahn (RhB), or the Rhaetian Railway, is a rarity and a gem in its own right. From Sankt Moritz, you can take one of the most coveted train trips in the world - the Glacier Express takes you on an 8h journey along Switzerland's most beautiful route all the way up the Matterhorn to Zermatt. Just to add, tickets can be found from CHF 49 (on sbb.ch) for second class... but there's also an all-inclusive option with a five-course meal, concierge and comfy window seats.
Yes, I agree with you, 8h is excessive! Especially since the best ride is still the off-route section on the Glacier Express, the one between Sankt Moritz and Poschiavo. This section is a real euphoria for train and railway lovers! There is no other route like it, where the train ascends over 2000m, passing through tunnels, viaducts, serpentines while offering views of glaciers, lakes, streams and forests. Yes, the higher ascent is only on the Jungfraujoch and Gornergrat, but both of these routes are not as spectacular and fast. The section between Tiefencastel and Preda (also in Grisons and also owned by RhB is lovely, has more serpentines, but definitely limps when it comes to the spectacularness of the views.
Skiing and the Diavolezza peak
With the development of winter tourism, skiing must have become popular. It came to the Alps from Scandinavia, where it was already considered a sport in the early 19th century. There are, of course, countless ski slopes throughout the valley, but the most interesting is the one at the top of the Diavolezza (2978m), where a full moon ski run takes place every month after an exquisite dinner (Glüna Plaina in Romansh).
Apart from this extravagant event, of course, the Diavolezza can be reached by cable car on any other day of the year (except during the service period ;-) ) for skiing, hiking, climbing or simply to roast a sausage over the highest campfire in Switzerland. Such finesse!
Kitesurfing and windsurfing between Alpine peaks, snowkite in winter
Alpine-surfering is something very unusual. And yet! The number of kites floating over the valley during windy days is impressive. Thanks to the constant wind direction and the gentle grassy shores, windsurfing conditions are very good here. The season starts rather late, but lasts until at least October. The only thing you need is a thick wetsuit, because the water may be turquoise and pristine, but the temperature is far from that of the Mediterranean. At least it is missing some 15'C.
Susch Museum - art gallery of Grazyna Kulczyk
This undoubtedly strong and at the same time spectacular Polish accent attracts curators, admirers and amateurs of contemporary art to the Engadine. There is no shortage of curiosity seekers either. After all, to turn a 12th-century monastery located at the end of the world into a famous art gallery of international renown? Oh, that doesn't often happen! The museum focuses on contemporary art created mainly (but not exclusively) by women and is organised around a permanent exhibition, which is enhanced by temporary exhibitions. Find out more at: www.muzeumsusch.ch
The museum also runs a tasteful café, where the cheesecake stole my heart.
Towns and villages of the Lower Engadine
While the upper Engadine with storied Sankt Moritz and sporty Silvaplana are noisy and busy, the further east you go the more intimate and cosy it gets. Small towns and villages such as Guarda, S-charl, Tarasp have been less impressed by time and progress. There is no modernism, no glass and no asphalt. Instead, brooms still stand in front of the houses and flowers hang in the windows. The beautifully painted houses of the once prosperous bakers and craftsmen have even survived unchanged, and you can drink the same tasty water from the fountains.
Each of the villages is slightly different, but certainly picturesque and with a few flavours. To reach them, however, you have to get off the main road and walk a bit. Well worth it!
Unusual events in the Engadin
Engadine is also the scene of spectacular and highly exclusive events, during which hotel prices literally reach the zenith:
The White Turf - a horse race on ice. For three consecutive Sundays, one of Europe's most prestigious races is staged on Lake Sankt Moritz. Early February - www.whiteturf.ch
The I.C.E. - this is not a competition, but rather a car show for oldtimers and sports cars on a frozen lake - theicestmoritz.ch
Snow Polo World Cup - if you can race cars and horses on ice, why not also play polo? For nearly four decades, just such a competition has been held on the frozen Lake St. Moritz. www.snowpolo-stmoritz.com
Tavolata St. Moritz - the 400m long table is the axis of a festival of culinary delights and delicacies. July. tavolatastmoritz.ch
...because here is everything the soul desires
And isn't the Engadine like a wine shop, a real oenotheque? You can find everything here, in every variety and note. You just have to give it some time, understand it, look around, try it, ask a few questions, so that you can then taste the best.
Accomodation and hotels in the Engadin
There are multiple options for accomodation in the region...
Insider tip - cable cars included in hotel price
Visit https://booking.engadin.ch/en/ to find hotels and apartments that provide cards for cable cars, trains, and buses. Staying at certain accommodations can significantly reduce your expenses compared to others!
Luxurious accommodations in the Engadin
The aforementioned Hotel Kempinski is the most expensive property in the area, but the Kulm Hotel, Suvretta House, Waldhaus, or Grand Hotel Kronenhof in Pontresina are not far behind. We have not yet been, but plan to check them out in the future. Alternatives to hotels are luxury flats, which you can search for on InterHome, e-domizili and Airbnb.
Family or group - apartments
If you are planning a trip with your family, you can find some flats on bookings, although for this I would rather recommend the InterHome website, with a slightly wider offer for the whole of Switzerland, as well as e-domizili and Airbnb. If you can't find anything on the links provided, AllChallets may be your last resort. Renting a flat or cottage is the best option if you are going in a larger group.
If you're planning a trip with small children, the area around Sankt Moritz and Silvaplana will be best - there are plenty of walking routes where you'll have no problems with a pushchair and the proximity to larger shops may be your salvation.
Campings in the Engadin
The largest campsite and camping area is Morteratsch - and it's a great choice, as there is a train station, bus stop and the starting points of several trails right next to it. The campsite is open all year round!
In addition to this, there is a surfer's campsite in Silvaplana, quite heavily occupied due to its excellent location for kitesurfing and windsurfing enthusiasts.
In Scuol there is a small campsite belonging to TCS (Swiss autoclub) - located outside the town - cosy.
Photography guidebook to the Engadin
Want more from the Engadin? Check our photography guidebook to the Engadin with multiple locations and photo spots!
Discover the most photogenic locations in the Swiss Alps with this detailed photography guide to the Engadin region. Covering both Upper and Lower Engadin, this ebook features 22 curated locations and over 60 individual photo spots — including glacier valleys, alpine lakes, scenic passes, and iconic viewpoints like Lake Sils, Morteratsch Glacier, and Muottas Muragl. Whether you're a professional landscape photographer, travel enthusiast, or content creator, this guide provides practical tips, insider advice, and a custom Google Map to help you plan and capture unforgettable shots. Also included are hiking tips, accommodation suggestions, and essential tools for making the most of 3–9 days in one of Switzerland’s most beautiful and historic regions.
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